Charlie and Mama in Joshua Tree

My mother had never been to Joshua Tree and she really wanted to get out of the “June Gloom” that is currently enveloping us on the Southern California coast. She rented the Folly House, a real architectural gem in the desert between Joshua Tree and 29 Palms.

The absolute most fabulous thing about this place is the outdoor bedroom. High up at the top of the smaller structure, where the creatures can’t get to you, but open to the night air and with vistas of the mountains at sunrise and dusk and stars all night long. I don’t know how they do it. The room is impeccable. Unmarred by the elements, clean. And for something so exposed, it still felt sheltering. Highly recommend!

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Honeymoon Part 2: Mallorca

When we left Morocco, we went directly to the Cap Rocat hotel in Mallorca. Actually, this hotel is the reason we went to Mallorca at all. I saw Cap Rocat in an interview with someone (can’t remember who) on some website (can’t remember which) about their favorite hotel in the world. A fortress on a bluff over the sea. Sounded pretty good to me. Cap Rocat (as Carlos affectionately nicknamed “Camp Rocket”) was luxurious and relaxing. A perfect juxtaposition to the dust and sweat of the Moroccan back roads that still clung to us.

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The hall to our room

The hall to our room

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Here I am at the spa.

Here I am at the spa.

Carlos diving into the water from the hotel’s sea access

Carlos diving into the water from the hotel’s sea access

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Neverending gratuitous champagne

Neverending gratuitous champagne

Tunnels

Tunnels

Breakfast is served on your private patio, straw hats included.

Breakfast is served on your private patio, straw hats included.

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Carlos can only take so much pampering at a time. We left on the Vespa, and (with no reservations) looped the entire island. Staying in places we found along the way.

We stopped at the Cuevas del Drach. You are serenaded by live classical music and then ride in boats in an underground lake. Busy and touristly, but fun.

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The sweetest market for postcards and fresh juice on the road.

The sweetest market for postcards and fresh juice on the road.

Found this great hotel in Deia.

Found this great hotel in Deia.

If you tell people it’s your honeymoon, they will literally always give you free champagne.

If you tell people it’s your honeymoon, they will literally always give you free champagne.

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Always in search of a beach restaurant and a whole fresh fish.

Always in search of a beach restaurant and a whole fresh fish.

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Found an empty castle to play on in Arta.

Found an empty castle to play on in Arta.

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This was the funniest place we stayed. A tiny hotel in a park for nature hikers. No decorations apart from the elaborate towel swans.

This was the funniest place we stayed. A tiny hotel in a park for nature hikers. No decorations apart from the elaborate towel swans.

Carlos blending in.

Carlos blending in.

The cliffs of Banyalbufar. The last stop. Adios, Mallorca.

The cliffs of Banyalbufar. The last stop. Adios, Mallorca.

Honeymoon Part 1: Morocco

We wanted our honeymoon to have a little adventure but also a bit of luxury. We settled on some dirt road motorcycling through Morocco and some nice hotels of my choosing in Marrakech and Mallorca.

We only spent one night in Marrakech, at El Fenn. I love the design of the place, and the bright colors. But, I will say, that I wish I didn’t get a room on ground floor of the main courtyard, which was too loud.

We spent most of our time on the roof, which was exquisite.

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The next day we rented a motorcycle in Marrakech and went to La Pause in the Agafay desert outside of Marrakech to the west. This is a rocky desert, and doesn’t have the sand and the scope of the Moroccan Sahara. But it’s much easier to get to, and the hotel was wonderful. La Pause has a dipping pool and camel rides, and Berber style tents. The whole place is candle-lit. No electricity! No wifi!

It’s stunning at dusk.

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Everyone gets a private tent to dine in. The food is very good. We ate way too much. Lots of fresh tagines.

Everyone gets a private tent to dine in. The food is very good. We ate way too much. Lots of fresh tagines.

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They’ll bring you snacks and drinks while you play petanque.

They’ll bring you snacks and drinks while you play petanque.

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For a mostly dry country, I’d say maybe we drank too much.

For a mostly dry country, I’d say maybe we drank too much.

Carlos and I found this Berber man while we were driving through the desert. He offered us mint tea.

Carlos and I found this Berber man while we were driving through the desert. He offered us mint tea.

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We left La Pause and headed to the coast, to an old port town called Essaouira. You pass through the many argan tree groves where all that argan oil comes from. One of the biggest regrets of my life is not stopping to take a picture as we passed an argan tree that was full of goats. Goats just standing in the tree to the very top branches.

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You can’t drive inside the Essaouira fort, we stashed our bike here.

You can’t drive inside the Essaouira fort, we stashed our bike here.

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I’m laughing because an 8 year old British boy took this picture for us

I’m laughing because an 8 year old British boy took this picture for us

Carlos playing soccer with some kids in Essaouira

Carlos playing soccer with some kids in Essaouira

There’s a surf town, SIdi Kaouki, south of Essaouira. Carlos wanted to surf with camels.

There’s a surf town, SIdi Kaouki, south of Essaouira. Carlos wanted to surf with camels.

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Positano, Praiano, Amalfi

We flew into Rome and rented a motorcycle. I don’t know why we didn’t fly into Naples. But it made for a quite a hot, sweaty, thrilling adventure on the back of a Moto Guzzi on Italian freeways for at least 4 hours.

I was thrilled when we arrived at the sun drenched cliffs of Sorrento, the town on the north side of the peninsula that’s most famous for its southern side. We had a drink and a snack before curving our way around to Positano, Praiano, and Amalfi.

That tiny Filson bag has all of both of our clothes in it.

That tiny Filson bag has all of both of our clothes in it.

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Carlos enjoying a granita outside Sorrento

Carlos enjoying a granita outside Sorrento

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Let me tell you about my favorite restaurant in the world. I don’t actually remember where I first heard about Da Adolfo. It’s well-loved though, and I knew I wanted to go. There’s really nothing more charming than a restaurant that you have to get to by boat. Unless, of course, you miss the last boat. Which we did. When we got to the dock in Positano we had just missed the last boat to Da Adolfo for lunch (which is, by the way, the only meal they serve).

Now I have to tell you, I think this may have been one of my finer moments in life. I jumped off the dock and swam out to a motorboat that was anchored in the bay with some people on it. I asked them if we could pay them to take us to Da Adolfo. And they did!

And when we got to the restaurant it was every bit as lovely as I’d imagined. The proprietor gave us a table, despite our tardiness. He offered me white wine with peaches. YES. He asked if we like everything. YES. He served us whatever he wanted, whatever was fresh.

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We made no plans or reservations on this entire trip. Which could have been foolish, but it wasn’t. The Booking.com app on my phone was amazing. I would book us a hotel room the night before or the day of, using the app. So we didn’t stay at Le Sirenuse…but we lucked out a few times with the sweetest inexpensive places. Le Sirene in Praiano was my favorite. The town was quiet and perfect, with a flower lined path to the water. I drank my morning coffee overlooking the gardener tending to the lemon trees

Coffee at Le Sirene

Coffee at Le Sirene

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We went back to Da Adolfo on the proper boat the second time

We went back to Da Adolfo on the proper boat the second time

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Carlos waiting for the boat back

Carlos waiting for the boat back

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Goodbye Positano, I love you

Goodbye Positano, I love you

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Christmas with Mama in Sri Lanka

My mom and I spent a few weeks in Sri Lanka at an ayurvedic health spa called Barberyn Reef Resort, “taking the cure” you could say. The hotel itself was not overly deluxe, but it was the oldest hotel on the beach, with all the old world charm that goes with that. And the ayurvedic treatments were sublime.

Every morning we took the 6am yoga class with a traditional Sri Lankan yogi, and then we went into our treatments. Two women massage you in synchronized movements with an oil tailor made by the apothecary for you. Then they wrap you up and put you in the garden where you watch the white butterflies float against the tall stone wall before being bathed in medicinal herbs. EVERY DAY. The all you can eat buffet is filled with vegetarian curries and papaya juice.

The rest of the day we would spend looking at antiques in old Dutch colonial buildings and visiting the homes of Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. We didn’t mean to make the entire trip about Geoffrey Bawa, but he’s amazing. His houses are exquisite. Go to all of them.

Beruwala Beach, a boy and his dog walking the reef

Beruwala Beach, a boy and his dog walking the reef

Old Dutch colonial mansions for antiquing

Old Dutch colonial mansions for antiquing

Traffic

Traffic

Reclining Buddha in cave

Reclining Buddha in cave

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Mama on the beach at sunset

Mama on the beach at sunset

Lunch being served to us at Geoffrey Bawa’s country house, Lunuganga

Lunch being served to us at Geoffrey Bawa’s country house, Lunuganga

You have the option of Western lunch or traditional Sri Lankan lunch. We chose the latter.

You have the option of Western lunch or traditional Sri Lankan lunch. We chose the latter.

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Our tour guide

Our tour guide

Bust of Bawa

Bust of Bawa

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A Geoffrey Bawa hotel, Kandalama, and the monkeys that tried to steal our Christmas presents

A Geoffrey Bawa hotel, Kandalama, and the monkeys that tried to steal our Christmas presents

Christmas Day climb up the rock mountain temple Sigiriya

Christmas Day climb up the rock mountain temple Sigiriya

It was steep

It was steep

There were monsters

There were monsters

Top of Sigiriya

Top of Sigiriya

With my mama

With my mama

Geoffrey Bawa’s Colombo town house

Geoffrey Bawa’s Colombo town house

as beautiful as the rest

as beautiful as the rest

Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka

Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka

Zapallar and Isla de Maipo, Chile

We went to Zapallar for our friend’s wedding. Carlos used to spend every NY winter, at least partially, in his rented thatched-roof cliff cabin in Zapallar. I miss that place, they no longer rent it out. But all of Zapallar is beautiful. It’s like an amalgamation of Sausalito, CA and the Côte D’Azur.

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This was American Thanksgiving Day, alone at the most Chilean cantina ever.

This was American Thanksgiving Day, alone at the most Chilean cantina ever.

Thanksgiving dinner

Thanksgiving dinner

After the wedding we went to Carlos’ grandfather’s farm house in Isla de Maipo outside of Santiago. He grows grapes for wine, peach trees, and I don’t know what else. I love the place, it’s full of history.

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AND THEN HE PROPOSED TO ME!

AND THEN HE PROPOSED TO ME!

Can’t get over it

Can’t get over it

So we celebrated

So we celebrated

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They threw him in the pool…to congratulate him apparently.

They threw him in the pool…to congratulate him apparently.

Shooting Sleepy Jones in Scottsdale, AZ

Thank you Andy Spade for taking me and Michael Fujikawa on such a nice trip to your hometown. Partners and Spade flew us out, put us up at the Saguaro in Scottsdale and we shot for a few days at the gorgeous and stylish homes of Andy’s friends. We met his mom. We drove beautiful cars. And we never even had to get out of our pajamas. Win, win, win.

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Three-legged golden, the nicest good boy you’ve ever met

Three-legged golden, the nicest good boy you’ve ever met

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Me, and a melon, and a baby blue Mercedes.

Me, and a melon, and a baby blue Mercedes.

The location

The location

The result

The result

Zebra carpet, gold shoes, striped pajamas

Zebra carpet, gold shoes, striped pajamas

Shooting Michael

Shooting Michael

The result

The result

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Andy testing the light

Andy testing the light

The result

The result

Cocktail hour

Cocktail hour

Michael and the tennis court in his boxers at dusk

Michael and the tennis court in his boxers at dusk

Race cars in the bathroom at the ranch

Race cars in the bathroom at the ranch

Anthony shooting Michael

Anthony shooting Michael

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My Phoenix Sky Harbor International recreation of an Eggleston classic.

My Phoenix Sky Harbor International recreation of an Eggleston classic.

Pucon and Volcan Villaricca

Carlos’ dad lives in the south of Chile, on this enormous property overlooking a lake and under a volcano. It’s stunning. Like Switzerland, but bigger? This was Chilean springtime.

This is the volcano. We climbed to the very top.

This is the volcano. We climbed to the very top.

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Carlos’ dad’s new house

Carlos’ dad’s new house

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This was their old lake house. Carlos and I stayed there. He grew up going to this place.

This was their old lake house. Carlos and I stayed there. He grew up going to this place.

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So, theme of our lives, we didn’t make a reservation to hike the volcano, we just tried to go. But all the groups had already left. Somehow we convinced this guide to take us, even though it was going to be his day off. I loved this man. He was so tough but sweet. This was an incredibly difficult climb and much steeper than it looks in these pictures, I swear. He does it many times a week.

The best part about going without a guide group is that it was just us, and we didn’t have to wear the official guide group attire. It was really hot climbing up even though we were hiking in snow. And it was so steep that I was scared about coming down. We had a tiny plastic tray with us that we USED AS A SLED TO SLIDE DOWN THE SNOW COVERED ACTIVE VOLCANO. It took hours to get to the top, and minutes to get down.

Honestly, adventure of a lifetime.

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We made these sandwiches to bring with us. Gave one to the guide. They were great. Ham, brie, avocado, tomato…but also anything tastes great when you’re exhausted.

We made these sandwiches to bring with us. Gave one to the guide. They were great. Ham, brie, avocado, tomato…but also anything tastes great when you’re exhausted.

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A guided group behind us

A guided group behind us

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Did I mention this volcano is active? And you can hear the bubbling lava at the top. Here I am, pretending not to be terrified.

Did I mention this volcano is active? And you can hear the bubbling lava at the top. Here I am, pretending not to be terrified.

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You use the ice pick to slow the descent of your “sled”

You use the ice pick to slow the descent of your “sled”

We lived through it, those are our sled tracks.

We lived through it, those are our sled tracks.

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A much deserved glass of Chilean cabernet is waiting for me somewhere.

A much deserved glass of Chilean cabernet is waiting for me somewhere.

Yosemite Family Meeting

If you haven’t left Brooklyn in a while and your dad and your brother ask you to meet them in Yosemite. It’s the most most refreshing breath of air.

The hike to Vernal Falls is best, I believe, at the end of the summer. The water isn;t too rapid, too shallow, or too cold to prevent swimming. It’s just right.

Dinner at the Ahwahnee (now The Majestic) is always dinner at Hogwarts, and never to be missed.

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Dada at the smimming hole

Dada at the smimming hole

The boys

The boys

Cigar with the scenery

Cigar with the scenery

Halfway up Vernal Falls

Halfway up Vernal Falls

Dad sunbathing at the lagoon at the top

Dad sunbathing at the lagoon at the top

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To celebrate my brother not falling off Half Dome

To celebrate my brother not falling off Half Dome

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Alone in Paris

So I flew from LA to London, spent a couple nights with my friends Anna and Tara. But it was cold and miserable (in July, mind you) and I had only packed for Italy so…I went to Paris a day early. Got an attic room Airbnb on the Ile St Louis and spent a night there before going to stay with my friend and wait for Carlos to arrive.

I don’t mind being in Paris alone, I did it for an entire summer once. I’m happy just walking around all day.

I asked someone to take a picture of me. Nailed it.

I asked someone to take a picture of me. Nailed it.

She’s alone too. Maybe I should invest in a selfie stick.

She’s alone too. Maybe I should invest in a selfie stick.

L’as du Falafel with the works. It’s best if you carry it down to the river and eat it with a view.

L’as du Falafel with the works. It’s best if you carry it down to the river and eat it with a view.

This is my mom’s favorite shop in Paris. It’s magical. They sell cut stones that look like landscape paintings. She made me go buy four of these stones for her. And lug them on a motorcycle through Italy with me…

This is my mom’s favorite shop in Paris. It’s magical. They sell cut stones that look like landscape paintings. She made me go buy four of these stones for her. And lug them on a motorcycle through Italy with me…

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But seriously they’re fantastic

But seriously they’re fantastic

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My friend Brady’s staircase

My friend Brady’s staircase

Carlos arrived! (But more importantly, look at those beautiful floor boards)

Carlos arrived! (But more importantly, look at those beautiful floor boards)

One last croissant and we’re flying to Rome

One last croissant and we’re flying to Rome